Platinum vs gold

Colour and purity

Platinum is naturally white and does not need additional treatment to maintain its colour ⁽¹⁾. Gold is naturally yellow and must be mixed with other metals, called alloys, to create white or rose tones, or simply to make it strong enough for daily wear ⁽¹⁾. Pure gold (24 carat) is too soft for jewellery, so it is alloyed with metals such as copper, silver, or zinc.

In the UK, every piece of precious metal jewellery over a certain weight must be hallmarked by one of the four UK Assay Offices (London, Birmingham, Sheffield, or Edinburgh), confirming the metal's purity ⁽²⁾. Common UK fineness standards are 375 (9ct gold), 750 (18ct gold), and 950 platinum, each number showing the parts of pure metal per 1,000 ⁽²⁾. Platinum jewellery is typically around 95% pure, while 18ct gold is 75% pure and 9ct gold is 37.5% pure ⁽³⁾. This means platinum generally contains far less alloy than even high-karat gold.

Hardness vs durability

It is a common misconception that platinum is harder than gold. In fact, platinum is a softer metal than many gold alloys and can pick up surface scratches a little more easily ⁽⁴⁾. However, hardness and durability are not the same thing. When platinum is scratched, the metal is simply displaced, moving from one part of the ring to another, rather than being lost. When gold is scratched, tiny fragments of metal are chipped away permanently ⁽⁴⁾. Over decades, this means platinum keeps more of its original volume, while gold can gradually thin, particularly around prongs holding a stone ⁽⁵⁾.

Weight and cost

Platinum is significantly denser than gold, meaning a platinum ring will feel noticeably heavier than an identical design made in gold ⁽¹⁾. This density also affects price: more platinum by weight is needed to create the same ring, and platinum is rarer than gold, so platinum typically costs more than gold of an equivalent design ⁽⁶⁾. Some retailers note that platinum and white gold rings can be priced similarly for certain simple designs, so it is always worth asking for a direct comparison on your specific design ⁽⁷⁾.

Maintenance over time

Platinum develops a soft surface texture called a patina as it wears, which many people find adds character, though it can be re-polished to restore a brighter shine if preferred ⁽¹⁾. White gold, by contrast, is usually plated with a thin layer of a different white metal called rhodium to achieve its bright white colour. This plating gradually wears away and needs to be reapplied periodically to maintain the colour ⁽⁸⁾. Yellow and rose gold do not require rhodium plating, though they can also benefit from occasional professional polishing.

Mixing metals

If you are considering a platinum engagement ring alongside a gold wedding band, bear in mind that platinum can scratch softer gold or rhodium plating through everyday contact ⁽⁹⁾. This is not a reason to avoid mixing metals, but it is worth discussing with your jeweller at the design stage.