Ethical options

Conflict diamonds and the Kimberley Process

A conflict diamond – sometimes called a blood diamond – is a stone mined in a war zone and sold to fund armed conflict. To reduce the trade in such stones, the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) was introduced in 2003. It is an international agreement between governments, the diamond industry, and civil society, under which participating countries certify that rough diamonds have not been used to finance armed groups ⁽¹⁾. Today, over 80 countries participate in the scheme, representing nearly all of the world's rough diamond trade ⁽¹⁾.

However, the Kimberley Process has well-documented limitations. It covers only the narrow definition of conflict diamonds linked to armed rebel groups, and does not address wider human rights issues, environmental damage, or poor labour conditions in mining ⁽²⁾. Critics, including some jewellers, argue that Kimberley Process certification alone is not sufficient proof that a stone is fully ethical ⁽²⁾. When a jeweller tells you a diamond is "Kimberley certified," it is reasonable to ask further questions about traceability and supply chain practices.

The Responsible Jewellery Council

The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) is an international not-for-profit organisation, founded in 2005, that sets standards for responsible business practices across the jewellery supply chain – from mining through to retail ⁽³⁾. Its Code of Practices covers ethics, human rights, social conditions, and environmental performance, and members are independently audited against these standards. Choosing a jeweller who is RJC-certified provides a broader level of assurance than Kimberley compliance alone, though it is still not a guarantee of full traceability for every individual stone.

Lab-grown diamonds

Lab-grown diamonds have the same physical, chemical, and optical properties as mined diamonds – they are not imitations ⁽⁴⁾. They are produced in controlled laboratory conditions using one of two methods: High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT), which replicates the conditions deep within the earth, or Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD), which builds a diamond crystal layer by layer from a carbon-rich gas ⁽⁴⁾. Because they are made in a laboratory, lab-grown diamonds are conflict-free and fully traceable to their place of production. They also generally cost less per carat than equivalent mined diamonds ⁽⁴⁾.

One consideration worth knowing: some people in mining communities argue that falling demand for natural diamonds could reduce income and employment in regions that depend on the trade. This is a genuine debate within the industry, and reasonable people hold different views on it ⁽⁵⁾.

Recycled and antique stones

Using a stone that already exists – either from an antique piece of jewellery or reclaimed from an older ring – avoids new mining entirely. Antique and vintage diamonds have a distinct character, often cut using older styles such as old mine or old European cuts. Sourcing a stone this way is widely regarded as one of the lowest-impact choices available ⁽⁶⁾. A custom jeweller can often set a stone you already own into an entirely new design.

Asking the right questions

No certification can guarantee perfect ethics at every point in a supply chain. A useful approach is to ask your jeweller directly: where does this stone come from? Can you trace it back to its source? What steps does your business take beyond the Kimberley Process? A reputable jeweller should be able to answer these questions honestly.